Dark Half, Dark Tung Oil + Citrus Solvent

Dark Half, Dark Tung Oil + Citrus Solvent

Real Milk Paint Co.

Regular price $74.99 Sale

Instantly add depth to your grain for an aged-antique finish

This the same Dark Raw Tung Oil but we have mixed the Citrus Solvent in for you! The darkened color of Dark Half comes from mixing in a naturally occurring resinous hydrocarbon for color. The resin is non-carcinogenic and does not contain any PCB’s.  Dark Half by The Real Milk Paint Company is water and alkali resistant. It resists marring, penetrates well, elastic and unlikely to check. Dark Half penetrates deep into the wood pores filling them up, consolidates the wood surface and builds a dark matte wood finish. It should be kept in an airtight container with minimum airspace.

The Citrus Solvent used in this product is food contact safe and is derived from the skin of lemons, oranges, lime, and grapefruit. The Citrus Solvent evaporates into the air. Any time you crush and smell a plant you smell the evaporative oils, this is why there is a citrus scent to this product.


  • Naturally polymerizing wood finish
  • Cures by oxidation, not evaporation
  • Does not form a glossy finish no matter the number of coats
  • Form a flexible waterproof finish
  • Resists abrasion and acids
  • Does not blister and peel (properly applied)
  • Does not mold like linseed oil
  • Long shelf life
  • Does not darken with time like linseed oil
  • FDA approved for food contact
  • Does not go rancid
  • 7 to 10 days partial cure, 15 to 30 days full cure
  • Already thinned (one to one ratio) so you can use it right from the bottle, start to finish
  • Can be mixed with any other of our Tung Oil Products (i.e. Pure Tung Oil, Dark Tung Oil, Half & Half, Outdoor Defense Oil)


  • 8 oz. covers 25 sq. feet
  • 16 oz. covers 50 sq. feet
  • 32 oz. covers 100 sq. feet
  • Gallon covers 400 sq. feet

Example: 1 Gallon will do 1 coat on a 400 sq. foot surface.


  • PTO is an all natural finish that is water and alkali resistant and offers a protective barrier.
  • PTO will not darken with age as other finishes will.
  • PTO resists marring, penetrates well, elastic and unlikely to check.
  • PTO builds quickly, consolidates the wood surface and builds a transparent matte finish.
  • PTO will not mildew or bleed like linseed oil when dry which makes it an excellent candidate for outdoor finishes.
  • PTO contains no thinners or driers and has a light nutty odor.
  • PTO mixed with Citrus Solvent is an all-natural organic finish that is environmentally safe and food safe.


Pure Tung Oil is a finishing product that provides a tough, flexible and highly water-resistant coating for a great wood finish when staining wood. It is classed as a drying oil along with linseed, poppy seed, safflower seed, walnut, soybean, oiticica, and a few other oils. Although it is relatively new to the Western world, tung oil has been known for centuries to the Chinese, and until this century, China was the main source for the oil. It comes from the seed of the tung trees, Aleurites fordii and Aleurites montana, deciduous trees that are very susceptible to frost damage. This vulnerability has restricted the cultivation of the tung trees to China and South America. Tung oil received a widespread application in China: in the building trades as a treatment for both stone and wooden structures; in marine trades as a preservative and water repellant on wooden boats.

It is said to have been introduced to the West by Marco Polo. From the 13th to the 19th century, tung oil had only limited use in the West. In the 19th century, it was adopted by the paint companies to become a major component in paints and varnishes. More recently, tung oil has gained favor over linseed oil for furniture finishing because it is faster drying and does not darken as much with age.



  1. Any wood filling or wood staining (water or alcohol stains work best) must be done before the oil is applied.
  2. Sand wood surfaces to 150 grit. Hardwoods with tight grain will take less oil. Sanding to 220 grit or finer will further reduce the oil absorption. This may meet your expectation for caskets. For heirloom furniture, you want more oil absorption for decades of durable protection, so stop sanding at 120 or 150 grit.
  3. The surface should be clean to remove all loose particles. If not, the dust will form a paste with the oil and stick to your surface. Vacuum thoroughly and wipe clean. Consider using Rubio Monocoat Wood Cleaner to wipe the surface.
  4. For better penetration the oil should be thinned one to one with natural Citrus Solvent (safe, VOC-free) or any commercial solvent thinner--follow safety precautions as directed.
  5. Using the Pure Tung Oil straight from the bottle would only be for the most thirsty surfaces like old weathered wood, 100 year old wood floors that were never finished or concrete.
  6. For the majority of all projects, you will thin 50% with thinners for the entire finishing process.


  1. Apply the first coat of thinned material heavy.
  2. Apply with a natural bristle brush, sponge brush, or foam sponge (like one for washing cars) for faster application on large areas.
  3. Allow the first coat to rest 30-40 minutes so the oil can soak in. As the oil soaks into the wood leaving areas that appear dry, apply another thin coat immediately. Continue to apply coats, one after another, until wood is saturated and stays glossy for a minimum of 40 minutes and as long as 90 minutes. If eighty percent of area stays glossy, the wood cells are saturated.
  4. Next, wipe down the surface with clean rag material. Continue to check for any seeping in the next few hours, and rub this off as well. Let soak in completely over night between applications. Do not allow standing oil on the surface overnight. Any standing or puddles oil should be wiped away with clean rags.
  5. Hang oil soaked rags up separately to dry.
  6. For woods with very dense pores like Teak wood, thin with two parts Citrus Solvent to one part oil will help it absorb better for every coat.
  7. Pure Tung Oil will take 7 to 10 days for a minimum cure and 15 to 30 days for a full cure.
  8. The solvent smell will continue for up to 10 days. Setup a fan to move the air or ventilate the area to accelerate the cure time and reduce the solvent odor--if using a VOC solvent (mineral spirits, turpentine, etc.) follow manufacturers safety instructions VERY carefully.


  1. Tung oil can be applied pure to very porous surfaces or with Citrus Solvent added if a non-toxic finish is required.
  2. Thinners can accelerate the drying process and greatly improve the penetration by cutting the first coat of oil with Citrus Solvent, mineral spirits or turpentine by 50%.
  3. Do not use the Green thinners now being sold. They contain water and will not mix with the oil.
  4. Remember by adding petroleum mineral spirits or turpentine, the oil becomes toxic with these substances mixed into it. Although the resultant finish is not toxic because the thinners evaporate.
  5. The number of coats of oil to be applied will be determined by the intended use of the piece. Two to four coats are enough for decorative work, paneling and molding. Surfaces that receive moderate to heavy use or handling could need up to six coats for maximum protection, plus a light renewal coats a couple of times a year.
  6. Apply till the surface reaches the saturation point. This will be evident as the surface will not absorb more oil.
  7. Renewal and building coats are quickly applied with cheese cloth, or a lint free cloth (old bed sheets work well). This process will give you a surface that will stand up to vigorous use and spills: water will bead on the surface.
  8. Do not get hung up on the number of coats, let the wood tell you when it has reached its maximum saturation.
  9. Pure Tung Oil will be in the wood rather than on the wood like varnish or Polyurethane top coat. The end result is more like seasoning a cast iron pan.

Building a casket?

Want to learn more about building caskets? Have a look at our friendly casket builder's guide, So You Wanna Build a Casket?